So, if your camera sensor is 1.5 inches wide, the scene captured in your entire photo will also be 1.5 inches wide, or smaller. #BEST MACRO PHOTOGRAPHY FOCUS STACKER ISO#NIKON D800E + 105mm f/2.8 105mm, ISO 100, 1/640, f/3.2 2) Photographing smaller subjectsīy the strictest definition, “macro photography” means that you’re focused at 1:1 magnification or stronger. My main recommendation is to take several photos in a row - on burst mode, for example - since there may only be a fraction of a second where your image is perfectly focused. The biggest difficulty here is that fast-moving subjects still won’t be very easy to focus on, and there’s not much you can do about that. It’s impossible to remain completely motionless while handholding a camera, and any slight movement is very easily visible at such close distances. That’s because, while your subject might not be moving, you will be, no matter how still you’re trying to be. Use your continuous-servo autofocus (AF-C), with an autofocus area mode that does a decent job tracking your subject across the frame (something like dynamic area or 3D tracking mode).Įven if your subject is staying still (say, a flower on a day without much wind), it’s still best to use continuous-servo autofocus. If your subject is about four inches (10 centimeters) or larger, my recommendation is just to focus like you normally would on a moving subject. It’s still small, but it’s not at the level where you need very much specialty knowledge to capture a sharp photo. In macro photography, a “relatively large” subject is something the size of a dragonfly or a flower. Photographing relatively large subjectsġ) Photographing relatively large subjects.
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